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Inspected by the
American Kennel Club

AKC Inspected:
January 27, 2010

Inspected by Multnomah County, Oregon

County Inspected:
October 6, 2012

 

SOME GENERAL INFO ON CHIHUAHUAS

Chihuahuas and Hypoglycemia

Small dogs especially Chihuahuas, have a very low fat reserve around the liver. Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) takes place in the nervous system. It occurs in mainly toy breeds between six weeks and twelve months of age. Often it is precipitated by stress. This disturbance should particularly be looked for in puppies that are just brought home from the breeder.

The first signs are those of listlessness and depression. They are followed by muscular weakness, tremors (especially facial muscles), and later convulsions, coma and death. The entire sequence is not always seen. The dog may simply appear to be depressed or he may be weak, wobbly and jerky; or he may be found in a coma.

Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home, or while being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal, chills, becomes exhausted from too much playing, or has a digestive upset. These upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and bring on symptoms (if the dog is susceptible).

Puppies who are weaned on rice and hamburger are more likely to develop hypoglycemia. We do not wean our puppies on this type of diet because the certain ingredients needed to sustain the liver are absent.

TREATMENT

Treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of glucose. Begin at once. Prolong or repeated attacks can cause permanent damage to the brain. If the puppy is awake, give him Karo Syrup, honey or sugar in the mouth. We recommend, Nutri-Cal supplement, found in tube form from your pet store. He will begin to improve in 30 minutes. When he is unconscious he will have to be given a Dextrose solution intravenously from the vet. It may be necessary to treat for swelling of the brain. Your veterinarian should be called at once.

PREVENTION

Prevent recurrent attacks by feeding a high quality kibble diet and add to it sugar, syrup or honey. See the puppy eats at least every eight hours and receives a daily vitamin.

Breeders should wean puppies on a balanced diet as we do. Food supplements should not exceed 10 percent of the total ration. Owners of toy puppies should not overtire them or allow them to chill.

If you have any questions, please give us a call.

FOODS GOOD TO HAVE ON HAND

Cottage cheese
Plain Yogurt
Scrambled Egg
Science Diet canned food
Foods out of the human baby food section of the store
Brown Rice and boiled chicken
Nothing greasy or salty
Nutra Cal or sugar water if hypoglycemic

THINGS NOT TO DO

Dog Parks (Until FULLY VACCINATED)
Unattended on high areas
Swimming pools
When going to the vet do not expose the puppy to anything except the exam table (sick animals go to the vet).

DIET AND CHANGES

Nervousness or change of diet may cause diarrhea. If diarrhea lasts for more than 24 hours, consult a veterinarian. All of our puppies are released with at least 1 pound of the puppy food they have been fed here. If you plan to change the puppy's diet, do so gradually by mixing some of his regular food with the new food for several days before switching entirely to the new brand. This will help to prevent stomach upsets.

If your puppy refuses to eat the first couple days, give 1 cc Nutri Stat or Nutri Cal by mouth 1 to 3 times a day. This stimulates appetite & relives stress. If the pup still won't eat after giving the Nutri Stat or Nutri Cal, consult your veterinarian.

Another good appetite booster is boiled and skimmed beef ground round and plain steamed white rice. This will also help firm up any loose stools and calm the puppy's stomach. This method is occasionally used in veterinary clinics and is considered a very natural and safe method to help boost the appetite and help with any upsets.

CRATE TRAINING YOUR PUPPY

When dogs are in the wild, they live in a den. This makes them feel safe & secure. In your home, the puppy crate is the den. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new puppy home. He should be encouraged to sleep & rest in his crate. He should be coaxed in, not forced. A small treat can be used & always give him lots of praise. At first, he may try to back out or become very timid. This is normal. Just give your puppy time and eventually the pup will be going in on their own. In the beginning, don't close the door. Let your puppy go in and out as they please until comfortable with the situation. Once the puppy is comfortable, restrain the puppy with your hand in the doorway. Eventually, your puppy will feel comfortable enough to have the door closed. A puppy should be kept in a crate whenever not supervised.*

A puppy instinctively knows not to "mess" in his crate, but does need to go out every 2 to 4 hours when young. Make sure you take your puppy out frequently to create a "schedule". Leave an approved chew toy in the crate to help satisfy the need to chew. Eventually, as the puppy grows into a full grown dog, your pet will then use the crate with the door open as their den.

*Please note that a puppy or dog should never be left in a closed crate for extended lengths of time, such as all day while the owners are at work. This is entirely too long to be left in a crate! Above all make sure the temperature inside the crate is kept well within a comfortable range. Even short periods of time in a crate that is too hot can become hazardous. If you will be away for extended periods, a blocked off portion or room in the house with an easy care floor such as a kitchen would be more appropriate. Child gates also work nicely to help block entrance or exits. Placing newspapers and or puppy pads in the room will also help if your puppy is accustomed to this method of training. You can also leave the crate in this room with the door propped open so the pup may have access to their "den".

CHILDREN AND PETS

It is always a good practice to keep a watchful eye on young children with new pets. Children must also learn to respect living things and to enjoy participating in responsibility and they must learn that like humans, puppy's also have needs. All family members should take an active part in meeting these needs sharing the responsibility of the exercise, feeding, cleaning and care. Grooming is also a good way to create bonds between family members and pets.

A word of caution to all families with small children. Children are known to "love a puppy to death" squeezing or hugging the animal in ways that could be irritating or even painful. Some children also tease and taunt while the puppy is resting or eating, children also must be taught how to gently stroke and handle the puppy and parental guidance is always a must. Children should also learn the proper way of supporting a puppy with both hands and not to be lifted by the scruff of the neck, or by any other method that is inappropriate. Always demonstrate to young children the proper way of supporting, transporting or holding a dog.

GOOD NEIGHBOR POLICY

Along with good general practices it is always recommended to consider friends and neighbors. For the sake and safety of not only your pet but for others, (pets and people included), it is a good practice to keep your puppy confined to your own yard. Do not allow your pet to roam freely. Be considerate of others and considerate of the dog's safety. An unsupervised pet can be open for disaster. Cars and trucks, or any moving vehicle are a hazard along with other stray dogs or animals and possibly dognappers or sadistic people that can bring your puppy harm. There are also other hazards such as poisons all around. Automotive Antifreeze, toxic plants, or even rotted garbage which can be proven fatal if swallowed. Not only can your puppy or dog get in trouble, but there are many ordinances in cities and towns that impose regulations and ultimately you, your family and pet could pay the price. Starting with the proper attitude and precautions will help everyone and your puppy, being a responsible pet owner is the way to go.

LEASHES AND COLLARS

Leashes and collars are also a good practice especially during exercise time. Nylon collars and leashes are quite durable and inexpensive, there are also harnesses that can be used that are quite adaptable. Early introduction to leashes and collars will prove later to be very helpful when going on walks. As your puppy grows, always make sure to check the fit, some people simply do not realize the collars can become too tight, especially with long haired dogs. Collars are also a helpful preventative if your pet is lost. Identification and vaccination tags may be kept on the collars in case such an event should occur. When using a leash to walk your puppy, be sure not to drag your puppy when they do not yet understand. Try to encourage and use plenty of praise and learn to have your puppy walk with you, not ahead of you tugging you or you dragging the you and people wherever you go. Using good common sense will help in many ways keep a healthy happy relationship for all. Leashes and collars are also helpful when taking your puppy on trips.

THE FIRST FEW DAYS

Your puppy might be a bit nervous the first few days. Everything from sights, smells, people, and even other pets. These are all different from the pups normal routine and for the first time will be away from dam and littermates. Allow the puppy to explore his new surroundings and learn of things the pup is or isn't allowed to do. Puppy's love to explore and will adjust to their new surroundings usually very easily. At Holidays, and or family gatherings, please be careful with a new puppy. Along with lots of love and security make sure it has plenty of rest time and quiet time, possibly in it's own room and away from the crowds. You sure do not want to stress the puppy by overwhelming it with too many and too much all at once.

Introducing your new puppy to the family and home can be a wonderful experience. There are however some things to consider. If you are introducing a new puppy with an already established pet or pets, you may want to do it gradually and give the new pup a chance to get to know the established pet to help avoid any rough confrontations. Sometimes established pets can be rather territorial and although it is natural for them to defend their family and home, as a precaution, taking it slow would be the best recommendation. Once the scent becomes familiar and less threatening, acceptance usually follows. If a fight breaks out, immediate separation is recommended, then re-introduction in a gradual manner. Love and patience on your part will help this transition go smooth.

Toys and rawhides are good to have handy giving the puppy a sense of having things that belong to the pup. The same is true for bedding, if you wish for your puppy to have one or more designated places to bed, introducing the pup with praise will let them know the bed is for them.

Behavior patterns are set early on, your puppy will be learning how to respect and trust you and family members, provided with proper care and a fair share of attention will give you a wonderful companion for many years to come.

 

 

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